In Search of: Philadelphia’s Best Hoagie
BY Amanda Bundschuch
My name is Amanda Bundschuh, and I am the farthest thing from a Philly native: a Los Angeles Valley Girl, to be exact. Before moving to Philadelphia, I would have described any meat, cheese, and bread combo as a sandwich. Wipe the shocked look off your face, and do not worry; I was quickly educated when my freshman-year roommate gasped loud enough for the entire Wawa to hear me say, “What is a hoagie?” Nevertheless, that first hoagie changed my life and perspective on the sandwich game; I became obsessed with Italian hoagies, Philly culture, and the importance placed on how Philadelphians eat lunch.
The Italian hoagie is a South Philadelphia classic crowned the go-to for many East Coasters. Yet, the Italian hoagie varies all over Philadelphia, with the argument for who has the most authentic being up for debate. I knew if I was going to eat and review seven different hoagies, I better be eating my favorite kind (funny how it all lines up!). What makes the perfect Italian hoagie is simple. An Amoroso roll that has a crunch loud enough to hear when biting into it and an interior soft enough to pull apart in your mouth, a 2:1 ratio of assorted meats to tomato, lettuce, and onion toppings, and a melting pot of spices and oils that enhance every other flavor. The grading system is easy: outer roll texture, inner roll texture, meat assortment, toppings, and location atmosphere. Ranked on a scale of 1 – 5 and given an overall grade out of five, here are a few iconic places to devour a mouthwatering Italian hoagie.
Primo Hoagies | 2043 Chestnut St
Primo Hoagies is an East Coast-based, authentic South Philadelphia chain with over 95 locations in the surrounding areas. Though a chain, Primo Hoagies always offers a warm smile and a sense of Philadelphia’s brotherly love, appearing as a family establishment. The fast-casual atmosphere is apparent in the order-up counter, large soda fridge, and open assembly line kitchen. A quick order with the lovely woman at the counter, who is bound to share bits of her life in Philly over the years, and BOOM! the cut-for-two Italian hoagie is next to you in under 5 minutes. With no seating inside, the hoagie is meant to be taken on the go. Find a clean apartment staircase to sit on and enjoy the delicious meal. The seeded roll has the decent crunch I am searching for that leads to a mountain of toppings, spices, and mixed Italian meats, the capicola standing out in particular. As my friend Kyd said, “You know the hoagie is good when it has “shrettuce” (shredded lettuce).” Primos is the full-proof hoagie location bound to be near when you are in a pinch for a damn good hoagie.
Grade: 3.4/5
Outer Roll Texture: 4/5
Inner Roll Texture: 3/5
Meats Assortment: 4/5
Toppings: 3/5
Location Atmosphere: 3/5
Di Bruno Bros. | 1730 Chesnut St
Di Bruno Bros. is not even classified as a true hoagie shop, but it could be if you are looking for an elevated meal. Labeled as a local, organic grocery store, Di Bruno Bros. serves up a “modernized” Italian hoagie in their prepared foods section, an organic take on the neighborhood specialty. Plated in a cardboard box, as opposed to the typical logo-filled sheet paper, Di Bruno Bros. encourages the customer to take this hoagie on the go. Inevitably, winding up in a local park surrounded by exercise enthusiasts and young love, I dive in. However, the bread was not what I was looking for. The seeded roll had a crunch but one that quickly went from crunchy to chewy. The size of the hoagie was impossible to handle; biting into it only caused the meats and toppings to shoot out the back and offer a mouthful of bread in return. For the most part, the insides were mediocre. Incredibly flavorful meats, but no shrettuce and a lack of seasoning.
Grade: 2.4/5
Outer Roll Texture: 2/5
Inner Roll Texture: 2/5
Meats Assortment: 4/5
Toppings: 2/5
Location Atmosphere: 2/5
Wawa | 3300 Market St
The heart of Philly is at your local Wawa. With the worst customer service and the perfect mix of screaming people or silent commuters, Wawa is the epitome of grab-and-go. Ordering at the kiosk is easy; pick out your hoagie, and you will receive your order number with a few clicks. It is essential to keep a good eye and ear out for your order because there is a 50/50 chance it will be called or simply appear. Once you have escaped with a few too many miscellaneous snacks, the Italian hoagie is ready to be eaten. My favorite part of a Wawa hoagie is that it is always satisfying. No matter if the Wawa is empty or being robbed, it always comes out to perfection (or as perfect as a Wawa hoagie can get). The roll is consistently warm and dough-like in your mouth. The meats are not the most decadent but work given the standing of Wawa as a food establishment. What stands out to me most is that the hoagie is not dry, it always has the ideal amount of mayo and oils. Wawa is not the end-all best place for an authentic Italian hoagie, but it is the quick fix for all your hoagie needs at an affordable price.
Grade: 3/5
Outer Roll Texture: 3/5
Inner Roll Texture: 3/5
Meats Assortment: 3/5
Toppings: 3/5
Location Atmosphere: 3/5
Steak ‘Em Up | 2600 S 11th St
Famous cheesesteaks? Yes. Famous hoagies? Not yet…but it should be! I enjoy a Steak ‘Em Up cheesesteak as much as the next Philadelphia transplant. However, their Italian hoagie is a rival they need to watch out for. In the heart of South Philly, Steak ‘Em Up is more than a dining experience. At this corner store, you can witness friends eating together on the steps outside, parents buying cleaning supplies in addition to their dinner, and young kids frantically biking to grab an ice cream sandwich before they close. Beyond the warmth of this establishment’s history, their hoagies are unmatched. With the perfect ratio of roll to meat to toppings, the hoagie is filling, not overflowing. The roll is oiled, doughy, and has the signature light crunch when first biting into it. Standing out first is the arrangement of meats rich with flavor, especially the special touch of prosciutto (a meat I am not used to seeing in Italian hoagies but should become a staple). The taste of the prosciutto blended perfectly with the sharpness of the cheese, making the cheese a true contributor in terms of flavor. Thankfully, Steak ‘Em Up does not load their hoagies with a mountain of toppings that will inevitably leave the wrapper below looking like the base of a salad.
Grade: 4.2/5
Outer Roll Texture: 5/5
Inner Roll Texture: 5/5
Meats Assortment: 4/5
Toppings: 3/5
Location Atmosphere: 4/5
City Pizza | 2700 S 16th St
Don’t let the name fool you; City Pizza calls for anything from to-go cheese slices to Italian hoagies in just minutes. Sitting at a busy corner, the circle neon sign brings in the masses and has won over the hearts of many South Philadelphians. With more community than I expected, City Pizza has decorated its walls with plaques of smiling employees, bulletin boards of local news (like the sale of a car only a few blocks away), and a myriad of customized Christmas decorations (in October), making charm one quality City Pizza does not lack. The meat of the hoagie was the first thing to catch my eye, almost spilling out the roll. With slices so thin they could melt in your mouth, the “guts” of the hoagie were the shining moment, coated in delicious oils and spices. However, uncut and wide, the roll was not as supportive and pulled apart chewier than anticipated. The repetitive chewing was far more reminiscent of, dare I say, a sub than an authentic Philadelphia Italian hoagie.
Grade: 3.6/5
Outer Roll Texture: 4/5
Inner Roll Texture: 3/5
Meats Assortment: 4/5
Toppings: 3/5
Location Atmosphere: 4/5
Cosmi’s Deli | 1501 S Eighth St
There is nothing I love more than an actual deli. Located near the Italian Market of Philadelphia, Cosmi’s is the corner store showcasing everything from their famous hoagie deli meats to toilet paper, a one-stop shop for all the essentials. With more options and customizations on the traditional Italian hoagie than expected, Cosmi’s was the perfect treat after a long day at work. The first choice offered was regarding the roll: plain or seeded? To feel authentic and add some crunch, I went with the latter. Next was the confirmation that every topping was perfectly placed inside the bun. Of course, I agreed for every tomato, lettuce, and onion combination to be present with a thin spread of mayonnaise on top. The striking moment was the cashier insisting I put hot peppers in my hoagie as well; good thing I love peppers, and I immediately nodded. Cosmi’s Italian hoagie was a solid unit, loaded up and smooshed into the paper wrapping. The roll has a crunch accompanied by the chew of the doughy interior. The meats were beyond flavorful and varied. And those hot peppers…gave the hoagie that spunk I was looking for. Beware: Cosmi’s hoagies may look easy to tackle at first sight, but take your time with it and set up a proper dining experience. It won’t be until you are holding the hoagie like a hot dog to keep the precious insides from falling onto your lap while driving that this will become apparent.
Grade: 4.4/5
Outer Roll Texture: 5/5
Inner Roll Texture: 5/5
Meats Assortment: 4/5
Toppings: 4/5
Location Atmosphere: 4/5
Evan’s | 4311 Locust St
Evan’s is a West Philly fix for everything quick and easy, with options ranging from pizza and fries to hoagies and burgers. The wide array of selections is a conversation starter within itself, yet the staff was more than happy to engage in conversation about the holiday break like old friends. Close to the University of Pennsylvania’s campus, it is obvious this is a favorite late-night treat for those who partake. Sadly, their Italian hoagie lacked some of the signature flavors I was looking for. With an Amoroso’s roll, I now know far too well that the meats used were the only part that shone through. Unexpectedly, Evan’s opted for a fewer variety of meat with a flavorful punch that made the meal. A little less shrettuce, some more oils or spices and this hoagie would have lived up to my newfound Philadelphia hoagie expertise.
Grade: 2.2/5
Outer Roll Texture: 2/5
Inner Roll Texture: 2/5
Meats Assortment: 3/5
Toppings: 1/5
Location Atmosphere: 3/5