Modern Ritual: The Art of Mary McFadden - Behind The Scenes with Rachel Sepielli
By Kylee Steigelman & Sharon Wu
Photography by Sharon Wu
As a new exhibition was being prepared in Drexel’s Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection gallery, we had the privilege of sitting down with Rachel Sepielli, the passionate assistant curator of the Collection. After a fascinating tour through the collection's corridors, we entered the gallery for a sneak peek of the new exhibition. Many of the mannequins were already adorned with the dazzling gowns of designer Mary McFadden.
Sepielli was ecstatic with pride in her work as she described the process of setting up the exhibition. In our conversation, we learned about curating from start to finish. Sepielli mentioned that she had the opportunity to work with McFadden herself, who had chosen one of the themes for the exhibition. This display would highlight her signature hand-painted silk gowns. She discussed McFadden’s fashion legacy, including her specialty hand-crafted techniques, beadwork, hand-painted silks, embroidery, and “Marii” pleating. McFadden developed Marii pleating to make pleats in garments permanent as previously; pleats would have flattened over time. The name "Marii" was derived from incorporating a Japanese influence to her name "Mary," as many of her designs were inspired by Japanese art.
Besides her knowledge of Mary McFadden’s designs, Sepielli learned many life lessons from her experience curating the exhibition. She shared one of her greatest inspirations from McFadden - a story from a Dior cocktail party. McFadden had met the head of publicity for Dior and asked for a job, offering to work for dresses instead of payment. Rachel mentions that this boldness inspired her, and she took it as a life lesson to go for what you want and to take chances.
When asked what led her to costume curation, Sepielli stated the significance of considering clothing on a deeper level. She sees clothing as relics of history that tell the stories of individuals, stating, “It’s about why people choose the things they choose.” She has also paid particular attention to how clothing was used as a form of oppression throughout history - something she has investigated since her first encounters with textiles and fashion.
In terms of the challenges faced during the project, despite how rewarding the process is, Sepielli acknowledged the intensity of the work. According to her, the biggest challenge of the curation has been finalizing the exhibition details in under six months. With a small team, all involved in the project have been hands-on in all aspects, attending to whatever is most critical from moment to moment. However tempting it may be, Sepielli highlights the importance of not allowing personal taste to intervene. She reiterates, "It’s about bringing the artist’s vision to life.”
Although Sepielli is a dedicated researcher and scholar with two master's degrees, she is no stranger to creativity. She particularly enjoys dance, a passion of hers since childhood, and attends classes regularly. “Being a dancer is my actual own creative outlet…I think everybody needs something like that,” she says.
Throughout Rachel's time as a Design and Merchandising (D&M) major at Drexel University, she learned how to examine textiles and garment-making techniques to understand better a garment's intended or applied uses. She also developed her eye for detail, a central story-telling element in garments. Despite the Westphal building not being a part of her student life, she cherishes her return to Drexel and witnessing the university's progress for current and future D&M majors.
Returning to Drexel as an assistant curator has been a full-circle moment for Sepielli. With this curation project, she has honed her sense of visual acuity and research skills, which she developed as a Design and Merchandising major. Given the all-encompassing nature of the D&M major, Rachel has been able to adjust and showcase her strengths in various art and fashion-related settings as an adaptable and expert creative and problem-solver.
Rachel Sepielli is thrilled to debut the Mary McFadden exhibit to the public. She believes the elegance and delicacy within Mary’s designs are worth observing in person. We urge our readers to visit the exhibition, which challenges the idea of inspiration and borrowing ideas from other cultures while also highlighting Mary's passion for innovation and deliberate detailing. Additionally, we hope that D&M majors are inspired by the vast potential careers accessible to them, including one in curation.