A New Era for Chanel? Matthieu Blazy’s Appointment and the Winds of Change in Fashion
The past year has been a whirlwind for the fashion industry, with over 20 major brands seeing creative director changes. From Chanel to Bottega Veneta, Givenchy to Maison Margiela, the landscape of luxury fashion has been reshaped by a wave of new creative voices. Among these shifts, the appointment of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel stands out as a bold and intriguing move. To me, this change feels like the start of a new era—not just for Chanel, but for fashion as a whole. Even writing about it or saying it out loud feels different, as I’m still not over Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel.
A House in Transition
Chanel, the ultimate epitome of French luxury, has always been about timeless elegance and innovation. Founded by Coco Chanel, the brand revolutionized women’s fashion, introducing iconic pieces like the tweed jacket, the little black dress, and two-tone flats. Unlike other brands, Chanel has had only three creative leads in its over 100-year history: Coco herself, Karl Lagerfeld, and Virginie Viard, Karl’s longtime right hand. For 36 years, Karl Lagerfeld steered the brand, keeping it at the pinnacle of the fashion world with his visionary approach. Regarding the house’s legacy, he said, “My job is not to do what she did, but what she would have done. The good thing about Chanel is it is an idea you can adapt to many things.” When Lagerfeld passed away in 2019, the entire fashion community mourned as if some of Chanel had died with him. His successor, Virginie Viard, stepped into the role, but her tenure felt more like a placeholder than a new chapter.
Cara for Chanel Fall/Winter 2019
Chanel Cruise 2020 – Virgine Viard’s first show for Chanel
Viard’s time at Chanel was… fine. She stayed true to the brand’s archives and kept the classic Chanel look alive, but her approach felt safe—maybe too safe. It was as if she were there to maintain the status quo while the hunt for the next big name took place. She didn’t bring the newness needed to overcome the loss of Karl. Every collection of hers was met with constant comparisons, a reminder of Karl’s genius and how groundbreaking he was. According to the brand’s long-time admirers and fashion enthusiasts, Virginie Viard's collections lacked polished tailoring. Furthermore, she focused on creating more wearable and relaxed apparel, whereas Karl Lagerfeld preferred avant-garde, theatrical looks and elaborate shows. Her collections didn't quite hit the mark in a post-COVID world where people craved boldness and reinvention. After five years, the fashion world began to speculate about her successor. Names like Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, and even Simon Porte Jacquemus were thrown around, but in a surprising move, Chanel went with Matthieu Blazy, the former creative director of Bottega Veneta.
Matthieu Blazy – new creative director of Chanel
Who is Matthieu Blazy?
Matthieu Blazy is no stranger to the fashion world. A graduate of La Cambre in Brussels, he cut his teeth working alongside industry legends like John Galliano and Phoebe Philo. At Bottega Veneta, he made a name for himself by creating collections that were both weird and beautiful. His designs pushed boundaries but still felt timeless and wearable. For example, in his debut Fall/Winter 2022 collection, Blazy introduced trompe-l'oeil jeans and a white tank top, both crafted entirely from leather. This playful reinterpretation of everyday wardrobe staples blurred the line between reality and artistry, showcasing his mastery of craftsmanship, technical precision, and material manipulation. Blazy’s work wasn’t just about clothes; it was about telling a fresh yet classic story. His ability to balance innovation with wearability made him one of the most exciting designers of his generation.
His appointment at Chanel is a bold move. It shows that the brand is ready to evolve while staying true to its roots. Blazy’s talent for reinterpreting classic codes in unexpected ways makes him a perfect fit for a house that’s all about reinvention.
My predictions for Matthieu’s Chanel:
From his previous position at Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy demonstrated a knack for reimagining accessories, particularly the brand’s iconic woven leather bags. Under his direction, we saw bold variations—like the classic woven design paired with a sardine-shaped gold handle, textile explosions with tasseled kaleidoscope details, and even combinations of two or more bags in a single look. This innovative approach makes me believe that, at Chanel, we’ll see the classic flap bag reimagined in ways we can’t yet predict. For the next decade, I wouldn’t be surprised if the mass market is flooded with dupe versions of Matthieu’s initial ideas, making his reinterpretations of Chanel’s iconic pieces accessible to a wider audience, with retailers quickly grabbing the idea.
Matthieu’s technical precision, combined with Chanel’s vision, promises to deliver meticulous and groundbreaking collections. We can expect timeless pieces crafted with extraordinary attention to detail, blending innovation with the brand’s signature elegance. And let’s not forget the shows—Matthieu’s Chanel could bring back the “wow” effect that Karl Lagerfeld was known for. Think of the grocery store-inspired runway, the Ritz Hotel in 2016, or the launch of a spaceship. Matthieu has the potential to create equally unforgettable moments that redefine what fashion can be. His tenure at Bottega Veneta was marked by a transformative era for the brand, both on the runways and the red carpet, driving sales up by 4% in the first nine months of 2024. Blazy’s creative vision extended to Bottega Veneta’s advertising campaigns, which featured global stars like Kendall Jenner and A$AP Rocky in a series of curated paparazzi shots.
It’s hard to predict how long a creative director’s tenure will last. Still, I believe this partnership between Chanel and Matthieu has the potential to be transformative—much like Alessandro Michele’s impact at Gucci or Phoebe Philo’s era at Celine. This could be a bright, defining chapter in Chanel’s history, one that people will look back on and reference for years to come. While it’s too soon to compare him to Karl Lagerfeld, Matthieu has the opportunity to carve out his legacy at Chanel, becoming a defining figure for the brand in his own right. One thing is for sure: this partnership will be one to remember.
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